Building Stories - 3

On the third visit I started from the Manek Chowk area. They were demolishing the Haji- Abdulkader- Valiulla Charity building as it was deteriorated and uninhabitable. The road from Manek chowk to Mandvi ni pol was partially blocked due to this. Being a Saturday evening, the traffic was heavy and many people could be seen on the streets. The people towards this end of the street were sceptical and non-cooperative. Many kept asking whether we are from the cooperation. They complain that they come and take many photos but no work gets done. I covered Mahajan Vado, Harshukh Mehtano kancho, Nagji Budhar ni pol, Mankhodi pol, Jumpadi Khadki, Kansara pol, Murlidar kancho, Raviyano Kancho and Lalabhai ni Kancho.

The sub-pols are much larger on this (northern) side of Mandvini pol. Many houses have dried ashoka leaves, lemon and chilli or a black horseshoe on top of their main door. The road upto Kansara pol is lined with copper shops, some selling ‘antiques’, some new vessels and some bronze idols. Many women are seen sitting next to the peepal tree in Murlidar kancho, engaging in leisurely activities.

In conversation with a resident of Nagji Budhar ni pol:

The legend has it that during the time of Krishna, while he was travelling from Dwaraka to Dhakko, he rested along the banks of the river Sabarmati. This was way before Ahmed Shah established Ahmedabad city, almost 2000 to 3000 years ago. The Ranchod Lalji Mandir is dedicated to Lord Krishna in memory of this event. The idol of Krishna is worshipped here along with Goddess Lakshmi and Tikamji (Balram).

In conversation with a resident of Murlidar ni kancho:

The pol is named after Lord Krishna. The peepal  tree was planted 109years back in front of the Bolenath Mahadev Temple.

In conversation with Ajai, a resident of Lalabhai ni Kancho:

Mandvini pol is atleast 300 years old. Muhurat pol is the first pol that was formed. When you build a building, you look at the ‘Ishan Kon’*(Northeast direction). So first the Muhurat pol was named and then the rest of the pols were made. The house was bought by his grandfather in 1925. His grandparents were actually from Pune, but due to employment issues, they moved here as came of their caste people were here in Ahmedabad. All the houses here are at the least 70 to 80 years old. A branch of the Sabarmati river used to flow through Manek Chowk. The city was made on the banks of a river. By digging to about 40, 50ft below the ground – kuwa (well) - natural water source could be found. Tankas, on the other hand, were used for collecting rain water. People knew the exact time during monsoon to open the pipe to collect the water from the roof to the tanka. The right time to store water was during the ‘magha nakshatra’. Water would be pure at that time. Even if that water is stored for 50 years, that water will be clean. The reason for this is that the tankas are made of lime. Those days the plaster was made from grinding stone, lime and other things, so no organisms would grow on it, unlike today’s plaster.

The area inside the fortwall is called ‘kott vistar’. The king used to live near the Badra fort. He used to come to this side on a boat as the river was very long. This area was a ‘smashan’ (burial ground). The Masaniya Hanuman Temple still exists today, behind the sharma bakery. There is also a temple for Varahi Mata nearby which is very old. The small temples that are being created now-a-days are for misusing the powers, to show that one is better than the other.

The building is very old, but it will cost mre tham 30 to 40 lakhs to renovate it. It is better shift from here than to renovate. And due to a lot of migration, people form outside live in the pols more. There is a lot of difference culturally. As many Marvadis and Maharashtrians moved in, those who were staying here started shifting out. Initially Mandvi ni pol was occupied by ‘sawarnas’ (higher caste). Now you’ll find people from all religions and places here. When you don’t have people you can connect to as neighbours, there will be no fun in living there. There will be friction with each other.

The main Mandvini pol road was earlier the ‘Raj margh’.

*This is considered as the direction of Gods. Ishan Kon has a lot of significance because it is believed that when Vastu Purush was brought down to the Earth, his head was in the northeast direction. The puja room should be in the Ishan Kon.

In conversation with a poojari of Ramnath Mandir (Devni Seri):

Many practices are followed to avoid evil eye and bring good luck to the household, like hanging ashoka leaves, chilli and lemon, black horseshoe etc. The horseshoes should be used ones and are actually supposed to be taken from a specific leg [left hind leg]**. But now a days people just buy new horseshoes from the market and hang it. Jains and marwadi communities also use coconut wrapped in red cloth also to avoid negative energy.

** 

In conversation with Moleshbagath, a resident of Harikishandas setni pol:

From his childhood, he could communicate with Nagraj. He had a certain connection which he could never understand. In his late teens, he started seeing Nagaraj in his dreams and his communication became better as time passed. He shared whatever he wanted with Nagaraj. Initially he used to have only a Pooja mandir at home (15years back). Overtime, when he wanted to build a temple, the money somehow got arranged and six years years back, he built the Nagmaharaj Mandir on the ground floor by clearing his house. He can sense people’s aura and knows whether he or she is has good or bad intentions.